Thoughts on Japan

Before ever stepping foot in Japan - I had read frequently of Japan. Its involvement in the Second World War (a touchy issue with neighboring countries to this day); its demographic issues (too many elderly); its bureaucratic political system (slow progress in reforms; the privatization of Japan Post a case in point); its lack of economic growth (deflationary for the most of the last twenty years) and then, lastly, its social issues - the result of an amalgamation of the above.

My short time there and one history book by no means qualify me with the capability of passing judgement on so developed a society. As flawed as the Japanese society is, my appreciation of it delves on much simpler things.

I had never seen it with my own eyes but I could only imagine the devastation post war. To see it now only slightly more than half a century later - it is impressive. It was the path that it has chosen (or maybe forcibly by American forces) to rebuild cannot be discredited.

It still baffles me how a society so seeped in the appreciation of nature and the beauty of simple things got so heavily involved in the shedding of so many human lives. Was it insecurity? Or just maybe the need to secure resources and raw materials. I suppose oil makes people do crazy things.

I cannot reconcile its history and its people but the Japan today I have to admit I am a closet fan. I do appreciate its history, culture and arts. Being in Beijing now I look back at Japan fondly. And then also, being in Beijing - will the country follow the same path?

If you want to read up on Japanese history - I recommend "A History of Japan" by RHP Mason & JG Caiger. They glossed over the more recent stuff but in general an easy and concise read for complete novice like me.

Tokyo

There is something seductive about big cities. Tokyo would have seduced and left you wanting for more. This place is at a whole different level to any big cities I have been to. I absolutely love it. I almost feel at home here.

Wedding procession in Meiji Shrine

Grease lightning dancers in Yoyogi Park

A red cadillac with the old Olympic Stadium in the background

An old man takes candid photo of himself with a Harajuku girl whilst another watches on

Ginza or "man's world" at night

The absolutely heaving Shinjuku station

Tokyo skyline from the top of Sumitomo Building

Modern Art in West Shinjuku

Skyscrapers and nothing else in West Shinjuku - marked contrast from East

East Shinjuku all dressed up and ready to play at night

Hiroshima

Hopefully this place requires no explanation.

I was initially very much looking forwards to Hiroshima. But then when I got there, I wasn't quite sure what I was looking at any more. Maybe it's remorse from the world that we live in.

I dragged my feet around the park and mulled over the question of "world peace". What does it take?

In any case, I have no answers. I didn't stick around long - so there aren't many photos to show you - sorry.

But here's to hoping that we will always choose peace.

Miyajima Island

Actual name is Itsukushima but because the place is so spiritual it has been given the name Shrine Island. The island houses the Itsukushima shrine and a couple of others. I'm not sure if it is still the case but apparently no one is allowed to die or give birth on the island in the past. This was meant to signify the cease of rebirth and suffering in Buddhist teaching.

Most travel to the island to see the floating torii that leads into the Itsukushima shrine:

I am no different

The torii at night

The island in the evening

It is a peaceful little island - something I am thankful for after the last few weeks of hectic travel. It took me a while to get to but when I walked into my room in the ryokan and looked out the window, it was worth it.

The island at day break

Sunset

Himeiji Castle

Dropped by Himeiji Castle on the way to Hiroshima / Miyajima Island.

The castle is perched on highround above the town of Himeji (but don't think for one second that this is some isolated township - it feels more like a city). Its presence reminds me a little of Edinburgh Castle - but the latter was actually occupied by royalties, and far more imposing on the city itself.

Himeiji Castle from the outside is quite a sight

It should be noted that whilst from the outside it looks like there are five levels, there are actually six and then a basement inside.

Castle wall peep holes

Himeiji city skyline from top of castle

Corridors inside the West Bailey

Whilst I appreciate the architectural significance of the castle (it is massive, plus the woodwork and structural foundation is impressive), I was a little disappointed by the inside. I found Nijo Castle far more tasteful - with its painted walls and calligraphy. But I suppose Himeji was used more as a battle stronghold than anything else.

Cherry Blossoms around the compound

Nara

Nara is the first capital city of Japan.

The city itself was built based on the Chinese city of Chang'an (present day X'ian), though to be honest its resemblance was lost on me. More significantly though, are the temples and shrines that have been built at the time - for worship, but mostly for the nobles and ruling families to consolidate power (this is the sceptic in me speaking). Much of European political history has been mired with religion - and Japanese history is not much more different. With the faith of the people united - the rulers were better able to lead and stamp out opposition.

The impressive Todai-ji temple - apparently the largest wooden structure in the world

Which houses the 16m high buddha statue

Inscription on lotus leaves of which the Buddha sits

Also the Kohfukuji Temple

If India have cows, Nara has deer

I missed out on Horyuji Temple as it was another train ride away and my knee was protesting. But this is definitely something I want to see. It is the oldest wooden structure in the world (and massive). Will have to come back.

Takkyubin

Decided that I really didn't want to lug around two bags with a bung knee - so am sending my bags to Tokyo. I am telling you, this is the way to go. All you have to do is drop off your bags at a convenient store (they are everywhere), and they should arrive at the designated destination the next day. Plus it is reasonably priced - it was JPY1,250 per piece for me.

Here's to hoping my bags will actually show up in Tokyo. Here's the website if you ever need it.

Nijo Castle in Kyoto

Formerly the Tokugawa shogun's residence - this was really quite impressive. I couldn't take photos inside - understandable as the walls are all painted by the Kano School of painters, mostly in gold laced copper (I think). It is immaculate inside - just imagine back then when the shoguns were in rule. I was most impressed by the art, I have to say. It is just a shame I can't show it to you.

Oh, and the floors in the castle squeaks - I am pretty sure it wasn't my knee brace either. It was a sort of technology they used to determined where an intruder would be. These Japanese, just way ahead of time!

Karamon - entrance to the castle

Gardens surrounding the castle

Roof detailing

Kyoto Walkabout

It probably wasn't such a great idea walking from 10AM to 6PM in a knee brace but every time I wanted to stop there was something in this city that kept pushing me on. My knee was protesting at the end... but it was worth it.

View of Kyoto skyline from Kiyomizu-dera Temple

Lanterns hanging from the roof temple at Yasaka-jinja shrine

Entrance to Yasaka-jinja shrine at night

Monk banging the gong at 5pm to signal they're closing shop

Bamboo forest

Zen garden at Kodai-ji Temple

Some shop selling matchstick boxes for souvenir (JPY 160 each by the way)

Cherry Blossom

Random Kyoto Restaurant Find

First night in Kyoto, went hunting for food. Did not help that it was dark, but after an hour of wandering around almost lost I stumbled into this restaurant. It was hidden behind a little alley, and looked really quiet, but upon entering I saw piles of shoes - which meant there were people all hidden in different rooms.

Same story, one girl sitting at the counter with one bottle of hot sake. After a couple of glasses, I managed to find out that it was a 60-year old family run business. It was initially started off by grandfather after World War 2. Then each generation learned the business - highly likely the young sons will too.

The food was impeccably prepared. I had sashimi, chawan mushi (very nice) and tempura. Got around to chatting with the chef and he even let me try this gobo thing which is apparently a Japanese favorite. It was actually quite yummy.

I wasn't allowed to take photos but here is the business card. Do visit - it is simply delightful just to be eating watching the chef and his whole family at work. They speak minimal English but I speak no Japanese and we still managed to have a conversation (they even managed to make fun of my knee brace). Very friendly.

Chef's name is Iimura Yoshiyuki

Stupidity + Bad Conditions = Accident

I think the title says it all. I injured my knee skiing down a cat track at Happo-One on my last day. Conditions were bad - visibility was low, but mostly, stupidity and excessive risk taking got me here.

Moral of the story - don't do stupid shit. Next time I will have to warm up. But thank god (or whatever mighty being) for amazing people around me. They didn't leave me alone long enough for me to feel too sorry for myself.

Besides, someone needs to take photos of me.

Posing despite injury

Being bandaged up by ski patrol

In my ride down the mountain

Sign in form at the hospital - "Pain" damn it, PAIN

Embracing the brace

In the event you do stupid shit too:

• You will be sent to Hakuba Hospital for X-Ray; however doctor speaks minimal English
• Go to Hakuba Physio for some English explanation and also a knee brace if you want one (if you've done what I had - you will) number is 0261 72 4117. I saw Leah Mandell and she was great. Should be able to get it back on travel insurance - but I don't know yet. Will definitely let you know if that is not the case.
• For Ibuprofen you will need to go to Nakajima, which is next to A-Coop supermarket. The pharmacist will understand.

Snow Monkeys

Took a rest day from skiing by doing the snow monkey tour at Jigokudani in Nagano. Apparently these are the only monkeys in the world who bathe in hot springs. The story goes that one day, just this one moneky took the plunge and jumped into someone's bath and decided that it was too good of a thing to let up. Eventually all her friends joined in too and the humans had no choice but to build them a spring of their own. Not too bad for being spoilt! Who's the joke on now?

Those crazy humans, don't they know the party is in the water?

Close up

Just another one

Snow in Hakuba

Woke up this morning to a snowing Hakuba.

My skis under the snow - can you find them?

Skiing a couple of days ago