Taishan 泰山

Post (some very rigorous) exams, the school had organized a week-long excursion. We travelled to Shandong - first stop being 泰山(1500m). The mountain (or a group of them) is the most important mountain in Chinese culture - it carries religious, historic and literary importance. It took us about 1.5hours to get up there - but then I take a lot of photos...

Prayer strips being sold on the mountain...

... some use them as such

The view of Tai'an from the top of Mount Tai

It seems the local tradition to "lock" away your woes

Though the lock business seems to be slow today...

Engravings (dating back over 3000 years) all over the mountain - beats me how they get up there!

One of the many red doors

Dai Temple at the foot of the mountain

Some parts of the temple is an architectural replication of the Forbidden City

Passage way in Dai Temple

Prayer plates

My attempt at being artistic

Tibet 西藏

Acutely aware how much I have romanticized Tibet all this time - I was worried that I'd be disappointed. And maybe I was, with some parts of it. But I can't help but be overwhelmed. The sights, the smells, the people, the history. The Chinese government clearly as made it a point to fill Tibet with as many Han as possible - with the Han making up 50% of the population in the cities and 20% in the rural areas.

Everywhere in the city, there is non-stop construction. Roads are being paved, the urban sprawl spreading. There are cars everywhere, the sound of the honk echos throughout the night. It was explained to me that the Chinese government has made it a point to "give" as much as possible.

Despite all the changes - the devotion remains unwavering. Pilgrims still flock to The Jokhang, which houses one of the oldest image of Buddha. All around Tibetans walk around with their handheld mani-wheels, muttering prayers whilst walking around the structure.

The Potala Palace itself carries a bit of a gloom. The place is empty - and overlooking the city of Lhasa itself, it looks like it is almost taunting, demanding even, for its rightful owner to be back. There is something rude about "visiting" a place of government when its "government" is in exile.

One thing my Tibetan tour guide said stuck in my head: "We've never had this and we are still here. So why would we need all this now?"

What can I say? It is easy to be biased either way - but neither will be the solution. Having just finished reading Jerusalem 1913 I wouldn't want Buddhism, so peaceful a religion, to be embroiled in an unending pain. I would be heartbroken to see thousands of years of history go down in flame because of the ego of man. Where do I stand? I choose peace.

The Potala Palace at Lhasa

One of the windows in The Palace

Yak butter for sale

Prayer flags at Bakhor Market

The Jokhang

Prayer flags sprawled out at Namsto Lake

Hagglers at Namsto Lake

Yak and his surroundings

Mao memorabilia

Monk outside Tashilunpo Monastery

Tashilunpo Monastery in Shigatse

A carved stone on the ground of Tashilunpo Monastery

Monks flocking out from prayers

Maybe this is what best describes Tibet - to the left, a door into the Monastery, to the right, The Wheel of Life, and in the middle, a China Telecom public phone.

The walls at Tashilunpo Monastery

Homework.

Yes, really. Homework. Having been seated here for the last two hours and still not yet close to completing this homework, I have decided to procrastinate and blog for a while.

It is week #3 in Beijing. To say that I have done nothing but study in Beijing would be a lie - so I won't. But I do have class Monday to Friday, from 8am - 3pm (yes, brutal). There was a lot of mess in class placement but alas I have been placed in the E class - apparently the most advanced class. I am surprised with how many characters I retained in my memory - yet most of the time the meaning I know but of which pronunciation I don't know. If it ended there I would be happy - Mandarin is a tough language to learn. There is writing, and listening.

The classes are actually really interesting - my favourite being Chinese History and Ancient Chinese works (in short form). I'm not really sure how many of these idioms I will retain but I definitely enjoy reading them.

Other than trying not to freeze in Beijing (weather forecast places the temperature between -1c to 14c), time is spent on alcoholic consumption, socializing, dancing and much laughter - otherwise known as partying. It is hard not to - Beijing has quite a few amazing clubs (and not to mention I have three other girlfriends with me). And the place is heaving with locals and expats. Though generally we do limit ourselves to droughts on Mondays through to Wednesdays...

All in all, has been an amazing three weeks and ten more to go. Have to return to my homework now but I promise a couple of posts to come soon...

Thoughts on Japan

Before ever stepping foot in Japan - I had read frequently of Japan. Its involvement in the Second World War (a touchy issue with neighboring countries to this day); its demographic issues (too many elderly); its bureaucratic political system (slow progress in reforms; the privatization of Japan Post a case in point); its lack of economic growth (deflationary for the most of the last twenty years) and then, lastly, its social issues - the result of an amalgamation of the above.

My short time there and one history book by no means qualify me with the capability of passing judgement on so developed a society. As flawed as the Japanese society is, my appreciation of it delves on much simpler things.

I had never seen it with my own eyes but I could only imagine the devastation post war. To see it now only slightly more than half a century later - it is impressive. It was the path that it has chosen (or maybe forcibly by American forces) to rebuild cannot be discredited.

It still baffles me how a society so seeped in the appreciation of nature and the beauty of simple things got so heavily involved in the shedding of so many human lives. Was it insecurity? Or just maybe the need to secure resources and raw materials. I suppose oil makes people do crazy things.

I cannot reconcile its history and its people but the Japan today I have to admit I am a closet fan. I do appreciate its history, culture and arts. Being in Beijing now I look back at Japan fondly. And then also, being in Beijing - will the country follow the same path?

If you want to read up on Japanese history - I recommend "A History of Japan" by RHP Mason & JG Caiger. They glossed over the more recent stuff but in general an easy and concise read for complete novice like me.

Tokyo

There is something seductive about big cities. Tokyo would have seduced and left you wanting for more. This place is at a whole different level to any big cities I have been to. I absolutely love it. I almost feel at home here.

Wedding procession in Meiji Shrine

Grease lightning dancers in Yoyogi Park

A red cadillac with the old Olympic Stadium in the background

An old man takes candid photo of himself with a Harajuku girl whilst another watches on

Ginza or "man's world" at night

The absolutely heaving Shinjuku station

Tokyo skyline from the top of Sumitomo Building

Modern Art in West Shinjuku

Skyscrapers and nothing else in West Shinjuku - marked contrast from East

East Shinjuku all dressed up and ready to play at night

Hiroshima

Hopefully this place requires no explanation.

I was initially very much looking forwards to Hiroshima. But then when I got there, I wasn't quite sure what I was looking at any more. Maybe it's remorse from the world that we live in.

I dragged my feet around the park and mulled over the question of "world peace". What does it take?

In any case, I have no answers. I didn't stick around long - so there aren't many photos to show you - sorry.

But here's to hoping that we will always choose peace.

Miyajima Island

Actual name is Itsukushima but because the place is so spiritual it has been given the name Shrine Island. The island houses the Itsukushima shrine and a couple of others. I'm not sure if it is still the case but apparently no one is allowed to die or give birth on the island in the past. This was meant to signify the cease of rebirth and suffering in Buddhist teaching.

Most travel to the island to see the floating torii that leads into the Itsukushima shrine:

I am no different

The torii at night

The island in the evening

It is a peaceful little island - something I am thankful for after the last few weeks of hectic travel. It took me a while to get to but when I walked into my room in the ryokan and looked out the window, it was worth it.

The island at day break

Sunset

Himeiji Castle

Dropped by Himeiji Castle on the way to Hiroshima / Miyajima Island.

The castle is perched on highround above the town of Himeji (but don't think for one second that this is some isolated township - it feels more like a city). Its presence reminds me a little of Edinburgh Castle - but the latter was actually occupied by royalties, and far more imposing on the city itself.

Himeiji Castle from the outside is quite a sight

It should be noted that whilst from the outside it looks like there are five levels, there are actually six and then a basement inside.

Castle wall peep holes

Himeiji city skyline from top of castle

Corridors inside the West Bailey

Whilst I appreciate the architectural significance of the castle (it is massive, plus the woodwork and structural foundation is impressive), I was a little disappointed by the inside. I found Nijo Castle far more tasteful - with its painted walls and calligraphy. But I suppose Himeji was used more as a battle stronghold than anything else.

Cherry Blossoms around the compound

Nara

Nara is the first capital city of Japan.

The city itself was built based on the Chinese city of Chang'an (present day X'ian), though to be honest its resemblance was lost on me. More significantly though, are the temples and shrines that have been built at the time - for worship, but mostly for the nobles and ruling families to consolidate power (this is the sceptic in me speaking). Much of European political history has been mired with religion - and Japanese history is not much more different. With the faith of the people united - the rulers were better able to lead and stamp out opposition.

The impressive Todai-ji temple - apparently the largest wooden structure in the world

Which houses the 16m high buddha statue

Inscription on lotus leaves of which the Buddha sits

Also the Kohfukuji Temple

If India have cows, Nara has deer

I missed out on Horyuji Temple as it was another train ride away and my knee was protesting. But this is definitely something I want to see. It is the oldest wooden structure in the world (and massive). Will have to come back.

Takkyubin

Decided that I really didn't want to lug around two bags with a bung knee - so am sending my bags to Tokyo. I am telling you, this is the way to go. All you have to do is drop off your bags at a convenient store (they are everywhere), and they should arrive at the designated destination the next day. Plus it is reasonably priced - it was JPY1,250 per piece for me.

Here's to hoping my bags will actually show up in Tokyo. Here's the website if you ever need it.